Bed sizes | Tiny Farm planning | Forum

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11:52 pm
Mon, Feb 21, 2011


Guest

Hi…

just starting up a little 1/2 acre csa. We're trying to figure out the best bed sizes. Any thoughts? The guy farming next to us varies his bed sizes according to crops. And others have told us to keep it consistent, the first year especially. 30", 36" 42".

Any philosophies would be well received. No tractors… just walk-behind rototiller.

Thanks

*And paths… 18" 24" ? Just for feet and wheel barrow

4:06 am
Wed, Feb 23, 2011


Mike (tfb)

Admin

posts 104

When I started out a few years ago, with zero farming experience and a winter's worth of research, I gave a lot of thought to what I could find out about bed size, and started with a very precise 5'x50 bed size, with 3-1/2' growing area, and 1-1/2' path. It was a decision to go wide (42") rather than narrow (30"). The theoretical thinking went something like:

  • 50' with 1-3 rows per bed depending on crop (i.e. 50-150' row feet) was a good base unit for yield for the scale I was growing on, IOW, in general, I could harvest a bed per week of whatever
  • 50' is also a convenient multiple of 100', which is the unit often used in US sources for quantity estimates (like, 1 lb of seed/100', 50 lb yield/100')
  • 3-1/2' (42") growing area was a choice to go wide and harvest from both sides of the bed – I like the idea of fewer paths and concentrating irrigation, mulch, weeding in larger spaces than with a narrower bed, like, 30"
  • 1-1/2' (18") path to allow easy maneuvering, and room for harvest bins, a wheelbarrow, etc

 

I've more or less stuck to that, and to the same scale of farming, 2-3 acres, mostly hand-tended. It works fine.

Over the while, as I got more used to things, I have varied. 5' is still my basic planning width, but in any one section, I may do 5', 4' or 3', the last for mesclun and other baby greens, where I seed several rows closely, and 4' for occasional emergencies when I want to squeeze more rows in a section where space is limited.

I have a small (18hp) estate tractor with a 60" wheelbase and 48" rototiller, and I can maneuver into a single 5' bed and till it up in no time, with active beds on either side, which is cool. I also use an 18" walking rototiller (Troy-Bilt Horse), which takes two passes on 5'.

The 18" path I've found is a bit much. It's nice not to have to watch your feet on the next bed when harvesting, but you can usually get by just fine with 12", and the extra strips of path add up: more weeding, more hose length, etc. It depends on how intensive and space-saving you want to be.

When you're starting out, if you're growing a whole lot of crops and varieties and succession plantings, it can get crazy keeping track of things, and I found the 50' multiples and uniform beds really helped keep things sane, from planning to fieldwork. Again, depends on your style, and how you handle to planning and organizing and…stress. :)

Hope that helps!

7:38 am
Thu, Mar 03, 2011


Guest

Hiya guys,

I actually started out with 1m wide paths (40") with 1.5m wide (60 inch) garden beds on the advice of Hugh Lovell a biodynamic grower from that States now living in Australia.

Main reason was for light and air to pass through and cause less disease problems etc. It was a bit of overkill in my own opinion. And I am about to start a new farm in Northern NSW, Australia and was planning on the 18" path with metre wide beds (40"). Planting the paths with clover (nitrogen fixer and doesn't spread [and grows well in our sub-tropical climate).

Crickey i wish you Americans had converted to metric when the rest of the world did. Would be much easier aye ;-)

7:41 am
Thu, Mar 03, 2011


Guest

Hiya guys,

I actually started out with 1m wide paths (40") with 1.5m wide (60 inch) garden beds on the advice of Hugh Lovell a biodynamic grower from that States now living in Australia.

Main reason was for light and air to pass through and cause less disease problems etc. It was a bit of overkill in my own opinion. And I am about to start a new farm in Northern NSW, Australia and was planning on the 18" path with metre wide beds (40"). Planting the paths with clover (nitrogen fixer and doesn't spread [and grows well in our sub-tropical climate).

Crickey i wish you Americans had converted to metric when the rest of the world did. Would be much easier aye ;-)

2:19 pm
Sun, Jun 19, 2011


EtienneG

Guest

The real benefit of standard bed width comes with mechanisation. If you are hand-tending and doing soil prep with a walk-behind rototiller, I do not really see the point. I am in my first year myself, on 1/3 acre, eventually going to five. For now, it's all hand-tended, but I eventually mechanize. I did standard 60" (1.5m) center-to-center bed, and honestly, for my first year, I do not really see any benefits. I would have been better with crop-specific bed width for now.

Once you get mechanized, standard width become a necessity, but otherwise, it's just an hindrance, IMHO.

9:48 am
Wed, Dec 14, 2011


Maggie

Barrie

New Member

posts 2

We tested out 2 foot beds and 2.5 foot beds this season. The paths are 14 inches.

At the end of the season we have decided to go with the 30" beds.

Our cut flower production beds are slightly different and we haven't standardised them yet.

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